Severely Neglected Wheel Restoration

Author channel Really Random Channel   5 мес. назад

116,032 Like   11,159 Dislike

Motorcycle Fuel Tank Restoration ( Honda TL125 70's)

This restoration WAS supposed to be 10mins long but the project is so full of cool steps and details i couldn't leave them out. So i hope you'll sit back relax and enjoy another Really Random Restoration from me :) This weeks restoration is of a late 70's Honda TL125 tank. A proper little vintage gem. As you can see the tank is very battered and bruised it is full of dents filler and rust but nothing we cant sort out on this channel. First step was the unboxing which i tried to make as fun as possible haha. Next up was to start some serious work. Yet again DEOX C came in very handy for removing all of the rust and gunk from inside the tank. Once this was done all tank openings were left sealed to prevent any crap building up inside again. Then it was off to the blasting cabinet to remove all traces of rust and paint. halfway through i had to stop and grind most of the filler out as i didnt want to put too much stress on the compressor and ruin my blast media with lots of unwanted body filler. After blasting it was very clear to see i had waaay underestimated how bad the tank really was. it was rippled and just crazy bent up but after a few hours with PDR rods, the knock down tool and a coffee it was back in reasonable shape and able to be body worked. The next stage was to etch prime the tank so that i could leave it overnight without the fear of any moisture in the air starting to rust the tank. Next day i started to fill the dents and get it straight and true again this took hours to complete and there were so many lines that has to be addressed. Its actually one of the worst tanks ive had to deal with. But after this stage the tank was completely straight so straight id have been happy to paint it gloss black just to prove it ;). but anyway.... Onto the high build primer and wet flatting stages now to remove any last pits from the surface and we are all good for the first layer of paint. After the initial layer of paint its back to the bench for some serious time measuring and marking out the placement of logos and paint lines.( Ive sped this section up considerably for you guys as. ) After marking out and masking up it was back into the booth for the painting of the red and black sections. Once dry all the masking was peeled off and the Honda badges were offered up to there precise position on the tank. Then multiple coats of clear were applied to finish the job. once The paint has aged for around a week and been fitted back onto the bike i will be flatting the clear down and buffing back to a glass like finish. I know this video is a bit on the lengthy side but i tried to cut it down as much as possible without losing any important stages or processes. If you like what you see and have any ideas for the channel or would even like to donate something to restore to the channel please get in touch. :) And as usual if you liked the video please like share and subscribe and help the channel grow. Really Random Channel

Antique Hatchet Restoration. SORT OF...

Alright, how would you call this experiment? Hatchet restoration? Makeover? Wrecking an hatchet head? Yes, I know this kind of handle doesn't make any sense: it's heavy (1.4kg or 3lbs), slippery and so unpractical to make. This project is just for fun, my hope is to inspire others to make something just for fun. The hatchet is not branded, bought it for 4€ at flea market. For me it's totally worth the experiment and fun of it! As you can see the mold I made failed, that's why one side of the handle (the one facing up in the mold) is not as clean as the other. I guess making a taller mold with way more sand would have made it much better. Next time! It still came out real solid, I've beaten that as hard as I can and it had no sign of weakening at all. Index of operation and materials: 1:03 Electrolysis: water and sodium carbonate solution, parts connected to negative side and steel sacrificial anodes to positive sice of a DC power supply (car battery charger). 2-3 hrs at 10amp. 2:15 Hot wire foam cutter machine and high density foam (kind used as home insulation). 3:53 Smoothing the foam with 320 sandpaper. 4:13 Gluing foam piece with hot glue. 4:40 Regular white plaster brushed on foam to help with cast quality. 5:20 Lost foam mold preparation by sifting fine sand (I'm using burned out petrobond sand but any fine and dry sand would work) 6:22 Adding sodium carbonate as degassing agent and "lite salt" (a mix of potasium cloride and sodium cloride) as flux to the molten aluminum. 11:15 Peening a 10mm round stock pin. 11:49 Polishing the handle (previously sanded to 400grit) with coarse and fine polishing pompound on two cotton wheel (only coarse polishing shown in video). 12:27 Re-grinding bevels and sharpening on 200 grit belt. For those of you worried about the molten aluminum tempering the hatchet steel: I tested the edge with my hardness test files and it results between 45 and 50 Rc. Unfortunately I forgot to record the testing before uploading the video (actually a friend on Patreon remembered me about that) so if you don't trust me here are some considerations: The hatchet is most probably made of something like 1050 steel. These steels are tempered between 400-1000°F (200-540°C) with hardness going from 50 ro 30 on the Rockwell scale accordingly. Considering that aluminum melts at 1200°F (650°C) I think it's safe to say it can't possibly heat up the steel more than 800°F (420°C) or so, in color temperature terms just over blue, and I think the edge can't even go above brown that is around 480°F (250°C). So at the end I think the edge does get tempered by the aluminum but not that much to be a problem. Also, the fact that the steel was already tempered does not make any difference in the steel structure, tempering depends (after a minimum time) all on max temperature reached instead of time at temperature or thermal cycles. That's all! Thank you a lot for watching. See you next week! ★Patreon★ ★Website★ ★Follow me★ Facebook ► Twitter ► Instagram ►

8 Biggest and Most EXPENSIVE gemstones off All Time

8 Biggest and Most EXPENSIVE gemstones off All Time It's pretty amazing, but a different spatial arrangement of carbon atoms can form graphite in one case and one of the most expensive and beautiful stones in the world in the other. Diamonds are a girl’s best friend as we all know. Hello everyone, today we are going to talk about unique crystals that anyone would love to own. Here we go.

Dustless Blasting Strips a '63 Impala in Under 1 Hour! 800-727-5707 Imagine how much money you could make with this level of productivity. It's no surprise that new Dustless Blaster owners are calling it "magic". The Dustless Blaster is faster, easier, and cleaner than any other blaster on the market. We've been designing and manufacturing top quality blasters since 1941, and continuous improvement has brought us to Dustless Blasting. The most incredible advancement in blasting technology in over 60 years. Find out why the Dustless Blaster is the best abrasive blaster. First song is by Dan-O at Second song is by Jason Shaw from

15 minutes How To Wrap Wheel Faces Like A Pro Using Gloss Riviera Blue To Match The Car

Check out the product here on Amazon: Get my heat gun here from Amazon Get my magnets here from Amazon Get my knife here from Amazon Get my wrap gloves here Get Vvivid Shield Guard here Get Monkey Strip felt buffers here 5 pack Get Monkey Strip felt buffers here 50 pack In this video we're using Vvivid gloss riviera blue to match the wheel faces to the rest of the car. This is a fun and easy project that anyone can do. Having a 2-tone wheels will definitely bring out a unique look. Get Certified Visit Instagram @ckwraps @newconceptautosalon

Another week another severely neglected and rusty item goes onto the bench to get brought back to life!

This week the item in question is a SEVERELY NEGLECTED MOTORCYCLE WHEEL that has certainly seen better days.

Now before i begin the description i would like to take a moment to say this wheel is NOT going back on the road so please dont flood the comments section saying that i never used new bolts for the brake disc or torqued them down to the required lbs/ft or removed or replaced the bearings etc etc you get the idea.

Also let me know what you think of the editing on this one, ive tried to cut it down and speed up the more boring sections to keep the overall time down as i know lots of you guys wont have a good hour and a half spare to watch a wheel being refurbished at normal speeds. If you think its to fast and choppy please let me know and ill revert to the longer and less choppy cuts.


First thing is first the obligatory before close up and as you can see from it the wheel is in a very poor condition, sitting in a muddy corner for years and spiders living in the centre hub have certainly made a monster out of this once lovely wheel!

The first job on the list was to get in on the tyre machine and get the beads broken to allow the shoe of the machine to lift the tyre off, then while it was clamped in the machine i thought this is a perfect time to remove the brake disc bolts while its clamped down to a solid surface as these bolts can be a right pig to remove if they have been over tightened and flooded with thread locking compound. To my surprise they broke loose fairly easily.

Next on the list was getting it on the workbench and getting it torn down completely first out were the cushions for the drive sprocket (actually in very good condition for the age and the weathering they have been through!) then off the the old valve neck and wheel weights.

The brake disc and bolts were then put in a DEOX C bath while i worked on the rest of the rim.

To clean the surface grime and muck from the rim CONCEPT CHEMICALS MASTER CLEANER was used at a low dilution ration then agitated aggressively with a VIKAN brush after soaking for a few minutes it was time to pressure wash it clean and get a look at what i actually had to play with. It wasn't too bad but definitely did require a lot of attention to get it looking its best again!

Out came the PAINT PANTHER for the next stage which was to remove the old nasty paint to reveal the lovely diamond cut alloy edges and shot peened hub and spokes, Not being a fan of polished metal it was at this point i decided on an all paint finish but at this stage i wasn't sure about colour.

After a bit of wire brushing with the dremel and a good hand sanding it was time to get it masked up and into primer.

First came 2 light coats of U-POL ETCH PRIMER to give the high build primer a solid base to grip onto.The HIGH SOLID HIGH BUILD PRIMER went on in three coats with sufficient time left between coats for maximum build. After that was dry a bit of wet sanding was required mostly in the centre of the wheel to eradicate the shot peening marks so that the rim would have a uniform gloss finish when done. PREPARATION IS THE KEY TO A FANTASTIC FINISH!

For doing the base coat and lacquering it is necessary to make some sort of rig so that you can get at both sides of the wheel instantly, if you only try to paint one side of a wheel and then flip it over to get the other side all you end up with is one side that looks passable and the other that looks shockingly bad! Before i could begin painting it was necessary to do a few touch ups with a little aerosol primer where i had to sand quite far down to get a uniform smooth finish after that was done and dried it was time to spray my colour choice REPSOL ORANGE

After the base and clear was done i took the mad notion to run a single pin stripe round and im glad i did i really like the way the silver pops out from the REPSOL ORANGE.

Then it was simply a case of cleaning up a few bolts and re-assembling the wheel.

If you like what you see and have any ideas for the channel please let me know in the comment section.

And as usual if you liked the video please like subscribe and share this video and help the channel grow.

Really Random Channel.

Comments for video: